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MANUAL.DAT
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1992-07-14
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This manual is divided into the following sections:
1. Getting Started
2. Using GUITAR TEACHER
3. Tuning
4. Chord Structure
5. Technical Support
SECTION 1 - Getting Started
The following assumes a basic knowledge of DOS:
BACKUP:
Backing up the GUITAR TEACHER files is recommended, for
two reasons:
1. If one copy is destroyed or rendered unusable for
some reason, you will have a backup copy.
2. If you copy the files onto your hard disk and run
GUITAR TEACHER from there, the program will load
much faster and work faster when it needs to use the
disk.
To make a backup to a blank floppy diskette, use the
DOS "COPY" command in a similar manner to the following:
copy a:*.* b:
If your knowledge of DOS is limited so that you have
trouble with this command, refer to your DOS manual and look
up "COPY", or ask a friend for assistance. In the meantime,
GUITAR TEACHER can be run from the original diskette, but
don't forget, you don't have it backed up! The standard
practice is to store the original diskette and use the
backup as your working copy.
To copy the files onto your hard disk, first make a
directory to store them in using the DOS "MKDIR" (MD)
command. You might type the following:
md c:\guitar
Next, type:
copy a:*.* c:\guitar
Again, if these commands are beyond your knowledge of
DOS, you may require assistance.
CONVENTIONS USED BY GUITAR TEACHER:
GUITAR TEACHER's user interface was designed to be as
standard as possible. A computer user of any experience
should have little trouble getting around it's environment.
Throughout the program, the first letter of each option that
may be chosen at a particular time, is displayed in high
intensity (bright) mode. Pressing the letter runs the
option.
Running GUITAR TEACHER (GT.EXE):
GT.EXE must be run from the directory where all the
GUITAR TEACHER files are stored. On start-up, GT.EXE
immediately looks for certain files. If they are not in the
current directory, the program aborts.
Example: Let's assume for instance your GUITAR TEACHER
files are stored in a directory called C:\GUITAR and your
current default directory is C:\WPFILES. If you were to
type:
c:\guitar\gt
GT.EXE would attempt start-up and look in C:\WPFILES for the
required files. Upon not finding them, the program would
abort. Here you must change the default directory using the
DOS "CHDIR" (CD) command. In this case you would type:
cd c:\guitar
Then type:
gt
At this point, it should start with no trouble.
Running and using PRINT!.EXE:
Included is a file called PRINT!.EXE. It too must be
run from the proper directory (see instructions above
regarding GT.EXE). Below are explanations of the options
available with PRINT!:
Manual:
This option sends a copy of the manual to your printer.
When you choose this option, printing does not begin
immediately. It allows you to exit without printing if you
change your mind. The manual prints at 66 lines per page
so, don't reset your printer to any other line spacing. A
large margin has been included to allow holes to be punched
if you wish to keep your manual in a binder.
Order:
Choosing this option allows you to print an order form
for a registered copy of GUITAR TEACHER or GUITAR PRO.
SECTION 2 - Using GUITAR TEACHER:
To run GUITAR TEACHER type: gt
When the copyright notice appears, pressing most any key
will cause it to disappear. Press a key again and the main
screen (the chord menu) will appear. Below are explanations
of the options on the main menu listed at the top of the
screen. "HELP" should guide you through with little
trouble. Press <H> or <F1> to display the HELP window.
Tuner:
Once you have chosen this option from the main menu,
the best way to get familiar with the tuner is to press <H>
or <F1> for "HELP".
Before tuning up, you may wish to reverse the display
from right-handed to left- or vice versa by pressing <R>.
The small box in the lower right hand corner of the screen
shows the current display mode. This setting will be saved
when you exit GUITAR TEACHER.
Notice the numbers 1 through 6 above the guitar
fingerboard on the screen. The screen opens with the number
one string marked with the menu block. Use the right and
left arrow keys, or number keys to select different strings.
Once you have selected the string you want to tune, press
<Enter> to sound the note and press <Enter> again to stop
it. You can also press the numbers <1> through <6> to
select a string and switch on the sound all in one
keystroke. See section three of this manual for detailed
information on tuning. Press <X> to return to the chord
screen.
At this point, press <Enter> to display a chord. It's
probably obvious to most that the numbers on the fingerboard
are the numbers of the fingers to be used in playing the
chord. For beginners, note that the thumb is not finger
number one -- the thumb is not counted. There are only four
possible finger numbers and they refer to your four fingers.
On most diagrams, there will be one or more of the
letters "o" or "x" at the top of the fingerboard. "o" means
the string is to be played open. "x" means the string is
not to be played. Sometimes this might seem impossible, but
that's because the chord may have to played differently from
the way one might think. For instance, you might have a
chord where all strings are to be played except for the
fourth string. In some cases, one of the fingers used to
press another string is also used to dampen the fourth
string simply by touching it as it reaches over. Other
chords must be plucked with your strumming hand fingers to
miss the strings marked with "x". Most chords however,
don't present a problem.
On many diagrams there will be a Roman numeral beside
the first fret. This means that it is in fact not the first
fret, but the fret corresponding to the numeral. This is
standard notation for guitar music -- Roman numerals refer
to fret numbers or "position" numbers. For those of us who
have forgotten exactly what all those Roman signs mean, here
is a review:
I = 1
II = 2
III = 3
IV = 4
V = 5
VI = 6
VII = 7
VIII = 8
IX = 9
X = 10
XI = 11
XII = 12
XIII = 13
XIV = 14
XV = 15
You'll rarely need to know them as high as 15. See section
four of this manual for detailed information on chord
structure.
Once a chord is on the screen, you can press <Enter>
again to hear the notes played as an arpeggio, or press any
of the numbers 1 through 6 to hear single strings. Note, if
there is an "x" above a string, you'll get an error.
Swap:
Notice the notes that make up the chord listed on the
right side of the screen. If a chord is based on a root
that is a sharp or flat, the names of the notes can be
swapped. For instance, A# and Bb are the same note -- they
are called "enharmonics". Even though the chord sounds
exactly the same, the notes can all be named differently
depending on whether you consider it to be based on one note
or the other.
Reverse:
"R" allows switching between right- and left-handed
display modes. The box in the lower right hand corner of
the screen shows the current setting.
Colors (Color monitors only):
By pressing "C", you can cycle through 10 different
color schemes. Your last selection will be saved when you
exit. If you have a monochrome monitor and this option
appears on the menu, your display adapter has caused GUITAR
TEACHER to detect a color monitor. You can force a
monochrome display by running GUITAR TEACHER with a "/m".
Type: gt/m
Adjust (Monochrome monitors only):
Pressing "A" displays a screen to help you to properly
set your monitor's brightness and contrast dials. If you
have a monochrome monitor and this option does not appear on
the menu, force a monochrome display with the "/m".
Options:
This allows adjustment of the arpeggio characteristics.
If you press <Enter> to hear the chord and the sound begins
immediately, you may not have time to pick up your pick and
play along with the computer. Choosing "D" from the Options
screen, allows you to set a delay period for your needs.
You may want the chord to play a little slower or faster as
well, so a tempo adjustment has been included.
Exit:
As mentioned above, when you exit GUITAR TEACHER,
certain settings are saved to the file CONFIG.DAT. If
running GUITAR TEACHER from a floppy diskette, that same
diskette must be in the drive when you exit so CONFIG.DAT
will be found.
SECTION 3 - Tuning
If you have trouble tuning your guitar, you're in good
company. Most people including many professionals have a
love/hate relationship with their instruments because of
tuning problems. In most cases, it's because the guitar was
not set up right in the first place, and is actually
impossible to tune correctly. But, even if everyone was
given a perfectly adjusted instrument, it's doubtful that
one in a great number could properly explain how to tune it.
Many know various different ways of getting the instrument
into some kind of acceptable shape, but many of the methods
are faulty.
The most common method of tuning is actually a very
poor one. Most guitarists learn early that the first string
open (E, the thinnest string) is the same pitch as the
second string at the fifth fret. One starts by hoping that
the first string is close to being in tune, and then if the
second string, fifth fret can be tuned to sound the same as
the first string open, then the second string it is reasoned
must be in tune as well. After comparing the second string
with the first, the third string is compared with the second
and so on until all of the strings are in tune.
There are at least two problems with this method.
First of all, most guitars, especially acoustics, don't have
their bridge "saddles" set at the right distance from the
top nut and so when the second string seemed to be in tune
at the fifth fret, it probably wasn't in tune if played
open. Secondly, our hearing is not perfect and even when we
think two notes are perfectly in tune there is still a
certain amount of error. As you move across the neck toward
the sixth string, your error is compounded. How many times
have you used this method, thinking you did a good tuning
job and then when you played a chord it sounded terrible?
That's because when you tuned the second string to the
first, you were just a little out, but by the time you got
to the sixth string, you were a long way out.
When tuning, it's best if you tune every string to the
same note instead of several different notes that get
gradually more and more out of tune. This can be a little
tricky and demands considerably more knowledge. However,
with the GUITAR TEACHER tuner you don't have to worry about
the problems of tuning to inaccurate notes since they are
all in tune within 1/10,000th of a cycle per second. As
well, you're not tuning the strings at the fifth or any
other fret -- you tune them as open strings.
So how does one know when the string is actually in
tune with the tone from the computer? Most people can tune
it so it's close, but there's a way to be very precise.
When two notes are close to the same pitch, but not quite,
you should hear a faint pulsating sound. As the notes get
closer to being the same pitch the pulsating slows down, and
the goal is to make it stop altogether. When it stops, the
two notes are vibrating at the same number of cycles per
second.
If your tuning still seems inaccurate, it may be that
your bridge and/or top nut are not adjusted properly. You
might consider taking your guitar to a repair shop for an
opinion.
SECTION 4 - Chord Structure
Chords are another great mystery to musicians and of
special interest to guitarists because eventually every
guitarist ends up playing a lot of them, whereas a trumpet
player for instance, never plays one. A chord is simply a
combination of single notes. There is no end of
combinations one could come up with, and so naming them all
with descriptive names would be quite a task. However, over
the centuries attempts have been made to categorize
different combinations and give them names. Understand from
the start that the names for chord categories that have come
to be accepted are only barely descriptive. Besides that,
most teaching on the subject of intervals and chord
structure is confusing, and on top of all that, different
"authorities" disagree on the spacing of some intervals.
The simplified explanation below should take you a long way.
To understand the formula for each chord category, one
must first consider the major scale. That is:
Do Re Mi Fa So La Ti Do
To play the major scale starting at any note, it must
be played with the following intervals:
Do * Re * Mi Fa * So * La * Ti Do
or:
1 * 2 * 3 4 * 5 * 6 * 7 8
Each number or asterisk represents a fret on the
guitar. What this means is that you must skip a fret
between certain notes, but not others. Forget about "Do,
Re, Mi" now and just consider the numbers. From 1 to 2 is
called an "interval". From 1 to 2 is a distance of two
semitones (there is a fret between 1 and 2). Notice that 3
and 4 are right next to each other and likewise 7 and 8.
The rest have frets between them. Therefore, it is a
greater distance from 1 to 2 than it is from 3 to 4. Try
playing a major scale starting at the second string, (next
to the thinnest string) pressing the first fret (C). Call
this note number 1. Next, play the second note of the scale
in the third fret, and then continue following the number
pattern above until you reach the end of the scale. You
should end up at the 13th fret which is the next C and
exactly one octave from the note you started with. You have
just played a C major scale.
So what does this have to do with chords? It's simple
really. The different chord categories are simply different
number combinations out of the major scale. The most basic
chord for instance is a major chord, which is any
combination of the first, third and fifth notes of the major
scale. The chart on the following page should help.
SCALE CHART:
(6) 13 F# G G# A Bb B C C# D Eb E F
E F F# G Ab A Bb B C Db D Eb
(4) 11 D Eb E F Gb G Ab A Bb Cb C Db
C# D D# E F F# G G# A Bb B C
(2) 9 B C C# D Eb E F F# G Ab A Bb
(1) A Bb B C Db D Eb E F Gb G Ab
7 G# A A# B C C# D D# E F F# G
6 F# G G# A Bb B C C# D Eb E F
5 E F F# G Ab A Bb B C Db D Eb
4 D Eb E F Gb G Ab A Bb Cb C Db
3 C# D D# E F F# G G# A Bb B C
2 B C C# D Eb E F F# G Ab A Bb
1 A Bb B C Db D Eb E F Gb G Ab
So, a C major chord is made up of any combination of C,
E and G (1, 3 and 5 from the C major scale). If you display
a C major chord, you'll find that every alternative is a
different combination of these three notes. Notice the
formula for the selected chord is listed at the very bottom
of the screen with the "voicing" for each alternative listed
just below the fingerboard diagram. Number "1" is also
referred to as the "root" of the chord. Now display an E
minor chord. Notice the formula is R b3 5. Now look at the
E major scale above. The root is E, a flatted 3 is G
natural, and 5 is B. Knowing these number combinations is
actually more important and descriptive than the names of
the categories. For instance, calling a chord a "C7"
doesn't reveal a lot about the structure, but knowing the
formula is 1 3 5 b7, starting with C, is much more useful.
(You need to know the names though.)
Many reading this will become quite suddenly
enlightened on this subject. What you need to do now is
study the structure of every chord you play. Gradually,
you'll begin to see how useful this knowledge is.
SECTION 5 - Technical Support
Technical support is available to registered users of
GUITAR TEACHER/PRO. The support is limited to help in using
the software. (We cannot provide lessons in music theory or
advice on how to fix your guitar.) Telephone support is not
yet available, but you may write to Celista Software at the
address listed below giving your name, address and telephone
number along with your GUITAR TEACHER/PRO registration
number (found on the diskette label). If there seems to be
a problem with the software, please explain in detail, what
steps led to the problem, whether it happens repeatedly
etc., and provide the version number of DOS you're using,
details of your hardware and any software in memory at the
time the problem occurred.